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Last July, the Spanish sun met us with a brilliant, steady heat—averaging a warm 35°C every single day. While that kind of midsummer warmth can sometimes feel daunting for RA sufferer, we quickly realized that the key to exploring Spain beautifully isn’t about fighting the heat. It is about learning to flow with it.
By adjusting our daily rhythms, finding the perfect accessible accommodations, and packing the right supportive gear, we discovered a side of Madrid and Valencia that felt deeply restful, vibrant, and completely mindfully paced.
Our Breathtaking Base: Plaza de España
For the first leg of our journey, we stayed at a gorgeous apartment booked through Homes & Villas by Marriott International. Our location right by Plaza de España was an absolute dream for comfort and pacing.
Because the apartment featured heavy Spanish shutters and deep window shades, we could completely close out the intense afternoon sun. But the absolute magic of this spot was the view. Looking out over the rooftops of the old city during sunrise and sunset was utterly breathtaking. Watching the tiles glow in the soft morning light with a warm cup of coffee in hand became one of my absolute favorite daily rituals.
Day 1 Arrival Highlight: A Late Afternoon Tuk-Tuk Tour
To truly see Madrid on our very first day without any arrival or walking fatigue, we booked a private, 2-hour city Tuk-Tuk tour through GetYourGuide for the late afternoon.
This was the absolute best strategic move we could have made. As the gentle breeze cooled the air, our open-air Tuk-Tuk glided effortlessly through the narrow streets of the old town, past beautiful plazas, and right up to major attractions like the grand Gran VÃa and the spectacular Royal Palace (Palacio Real). Taking the final tour of the day allowed us to get our bearings completely at ease, mapping out exactly what landmarks we wanted to revisit and explore deeper over the following days—all while saving my steps for the rest of the trip.
Morning Markets, Mediterranean Breakfasts, and Refreshing Sips
Our days began early, before the city reached its peak heat. Madrid is filled with incredible neighborhood breakfast spots offering everything from traditional churros to fresh, Mediterranean-style olive oil toasts with ripe, sweet tomatoes.
After a quiet breakfast, our first stop was always the traditional Mostenses Market (Mercado de los Mostenses). Located just steps from our apartment near Plaza de España, this market is accessible, and it has a much more authentic, local neighborhood vibe than the heavily crowded tourist spots. It was incredibly gentle for an easy morning walk.
While wandering the stalls, we discovered two refreshing local drinks that are absolute lifesavers in the 35°C July heat: Horchata de Chufa and Granizado de Limón.
They offer completely different, delightful tastes. The Horchata (made from tiger nuts) has an incredibly unique, smooth, and slightly nutty flavor profile that you simply have to try when in Spain. The Granizado de Limón, on the other hand, is a frozen, sweet, and tangy shaved ice lemonade that instantly cools your entire body.
Skylar’s Postcard Tip: Always visit the traditional markets early in the day. Not only are the crowds thinner, but the walk back to your accommodation will be much cooler. By midday, the heat rises quickly, making a long walk back feel much heavier on the body.
(P.S. I fell so deeply in love with the icy, refreshing citrus crunch of the frozen lemonade that I knew I had to recreate it. If you want to bring a taste of Madrid into your own kitchen, I’ve shared my signature, easy-to-follow [Granizado de Limón Recipe] over in our Cafe Culture section!)
Navigating El Retiro Park: E-Bikes, Ice Coffee, and a Missing Phone
No trip to Madrid is complete without visiting the historic El Retiro Park. This expansive green oasis is utterly magnificent, but it is also massive and incredibly easy to get lost in. To protect my joints from miles of walking, we decided to explore it on wheels.
We arrived at the park early at 9:00 AM, heading straight for the specific gate lined with bike rental shops. In true, relaxed Spanish style, the shops weren’t open yet despite their posted hours! Instead of stressing, we leaned into the slow pace. We found a charming nearby spot, sat outside, and enjoyed a wonderful cup of iced coffee and a simple, fresh pastry while we waited. It turned out to be a beautiful, quiet way to watch the city wake up.
Once the shops opened, we rented an e-bike. My husband and daughter took turns pedaling while I sat back, completely relaxed, and enjoyed the smooth, effortless ride. It was the perfect solution for exploring the vast paths without joint fatigue.
We spent about two wonderful hours gliding through the park, stopping for short, gentle walks whenever we reached a landmark. We marveled at the breathtaking architecture of the Crystal Palace (Palacio de Cristal) reflecting over the water, breathed in the scents of the Rose Garden (La Rosaleda), and paused at the unique Fallen Angel Statue. We purposely skipped the Cecilio RodrÃguez gardens—simply because I am quite afraid of birds, and that area is famous for its roaming peacocks!
Skylar’s Postcard Warning: If you explore the park by bike, please learn from our family’s wild phone adventures that morning! My daughter’s phone slipped right out of her pocket while we were riding. By the time we realized it, someone had already picked it up, turned it off, and refused to respond to our locator texts.
Amazingly, just a short while later, my husband also dropped his phone! But in a beautiful display of Spanish kindness, an honest soul found it and handed it into a nearby cafe, where we were able to safely retrieve it.
As for me? I was far too busy happily snapping photos of the Crystal Palace to worry about pockets. My phone stayed perfectly safe the entire time because I wore a long, secure phone strap looped right around my neck.
If you are traveling, I highly recommend a Crossbody Phone Lanyard Strap like mine to keep your tech safely attached to your body!
Beat-the-Heat Travel Saviors
Staying comfortable in the intense July heat required some smart, portable technology. Our absolute best investment for this trip was a set of powerful, hands-free portable fans that kept us cool wherever we wandered.
My husband used a clever, heavy-duty Portable Waist Clip Fan that clipped securely right onto the waistband of his shorts. By draping his shirt directly over the fan, it blew a steady stream of cool air straight up inside his shirt—keeping him perfectly comfortable even while walking or riding bikes.
Mine was a lightweight Hands-Free Lanyard Fan around my neck that blew a gentle breeze directly up toward my face. These fans were incredibly convenient because they went everywhere with us.
Equally life-changing for my joint comfort were my shoes. I wore the Cadense Adaptive Women’s Trainers. Because standard sneakers are built for speed rather than walking challenges, they can often cause fatigue or tripping on uneven city streets. My Cadense shoes feature patented variable friction technology that allows my feet to glide smoothly over obstacles and pavement without catching my toes. They gave me a cloud-like walking experience and completely protected my joints throughout the entire trip.
The Art of the Afternoon Siesta
By late morning, we wrapped up our market wandering, picked up fresh ingredients, and headed back to our apartment for a light, quiet lunch. Then, we did exactly as the Spaniards do: we napped.
With the shades drawn down and the apartment beautifully cool, we spent the hottest hours of the afternoon resting, reading, and letting our bodies recover. This intentional pause is a game-changer for RA travel. It ensures you have the energy to enjoy the cooler, magical evening hours without pushing your physical limits.
One Long Spanish Night: Midnight Snacks at the Market and Secrets of the Arab Walls
Because of my daily RA medications, alcohol is completely off the table for me. But what I lack in a wine palate, I more than make up for in my love for food! I want to taste absolutely everything when I travel. Luckily, my husband and daughter share this exact same passion. Whenever we visit a new city, our favorite family ritual is hunting down the most delicious local bites we can find.
Our favorite culinary evening began around 9:00 PM just as the golden Spanish sun was finally beginning to dip below the horizon. We hailed an Uber and headed straight for the legendary, glass-walled Mercado de San Miguel. The air was still quite warm, so we intentionally took our time, letting the city’s electric evening energy carry us forward. For us Canadians, eating dinner at 10:00 PM or 11:00 PM felt like eating midnight snacks, but we happily adapted to the Spanish rhythm!
The market was a bustling symphony of sights and scents. We spent hours wandering from stall to stall, ordering small plates of tapas, fresh seafood, rich cured hams, and artisanal sandwiches. A few standouts completely stole our hearts:
- Croquetas de Jamón: Golden, crispy on the outside, with an impossibly velvety, rich bechamel sauce and savory Iberian ham on the inside.
- Galician Octopus (Pulpo a la Gallega): Boiled to absolute tender perfection, served over a bed of warm, soft potatoes, drizzled with rich Spanish olive oil, and dusted with smoky sea salt and paprika.
- Traditional Paella: Plump, saffron-infused rice bursting with deep, rich Mediterranean flavors.
While my family browsed the heavier desserts, my absolute sanctuary was the market’s vibrant fresh fruit bars. After a warm day in the city, I couldn’t get enough of the beautifully prepared, refreshing cups of cold watermelon, juicy mango, sweet papaya, and crisp pineapples. Navigating the market at night was lively but flat and accessible, making it easy to lean against a high-top counter, chat, and savor Madrid one incredible bite at a time.
After our senses were thoroughly delighted at the food market, our long evening continued with a short, gentle stroll to find a hidden piece of Madrid’s deep past: the Arab Walls of Madrid.
Tucked away near the cathedral, this is officially Madrid’s oldest standing structure, dating back to the 9th century. It was originally commissioned by the Muslim ruler Emir Muhammad. Today, only a small, exposed stone section remains visible in a quiet park. The rest of this massive ancient wall sleeps silently, completely buried beneath the foundations of modern city buildings. Standing next to stones that have watched the city evolve for over a thousand years was a beautiful, humbling moment of quiet reflection.
To bring our magical, extended summer night to a close, we made our way into the grand, open square of the Plaza Mayor.
By now, it was close to midnight, but the air was still filled with a soft, warm Spanish breeze. We found a cozy table at an outdoor terrace, sat back to give our feet a well-deserved rest, and ordered a late-night treat: classic, crispy churros and a couple of ice-cold glasses of fresh lemonade. Sitting under the lit arches of the plaza, dipping warm pastries, and watching the lively night owl crowd stream past was the ultimate way to savor the slow, joyful heartbeat of a Madrid summer night before our quick Uber ride zipped us safely back to our cool Plaza de España apartment.
Valencia: Cargo Bikes, Hemingway’s Paella, and a Symphony for the Senses
After a magical stay in Madrid, we boarded the high-speed iryo train for a smooth, relaxing ride down to the vibrant coastal city of Valencia.
Arriving in Valencia, we checked into the magnificent Grand Hotel (Palacio Santa Clara), where we stayed in a gorgeous fourth-floor room overlooking the historic Town Hall Square (Plaza del Ayuntamiento). The view from our windows was absolutely beautiful. The service and hospitality at this boutique gem were completely impeccable. In fact, we fell so deeply in love with the hotel’s restaurant, Soul 1927, that we spent all three of our evenings there, dining on exquisite local dishes while listening to a live pianist play soft melodies in the background. As a lifelong music teacher, this was absolute paradise for my soul.
Day 2: Gliding Through Turia Gardens on a Longtail Cargo Bike
Our second day in the city was an absolute highlight, largely thanks to a bit of creative pacing. We walked over to the Pelican Bike shop near the old city center to find a set of wheels. My husband is a massive bike enthusiast, so this was officially his happiest day of the trip!
To save my joints from hours of walking, we rented a specialized Longtail Cargo Bike. It featured a beautifully cushioned bench seat at the back where I could sit back, relax, and completely enjoy the scenery while my husband did all the pedaling.
Together, we set off along Valencia’s iconic 9-kilometer-long green route winding through the Turia Gardens (JardÃn del Turia). This lush, sunken park was created out of a diverted riverbed, meaning it is entirely flat, peaceful, and completely free of car traffic.
We glided seamlessly under ancient bridges and past magnificent landmarks, stopping to marvel at:
- The ancient stone gates of the Torres de Serranos
- The grand architecture of the Palau de la Música
- The futuristic, white curves of the Science Museum (Museu de les Ciències) and the massive Hemisfèric IMAX Theater
Lunch at La Pepica: Paella with a Side of History
For lunch, we steered our cargo bike toward the shimmering Mediterranean coastline to visit La Pepica, a legendary beachside restaurant that has been serving authentic Valencian rice dishes since 1898.
This restaurant is steeped in rich history. It was a favorite haunt of the famous painter JoaquÃn Sorolla, and Ernest Hemingway even wrote about his love for their food in his personal travel memoirs. We ordered their world-famous Sorolla Paella—a rich, savory masterpiece packed with fresh seafood, where all the shells are meticulously peeled for you. Eating world-class paella indoors by the window with a beautiful view of the beachfront was an unforgettable experience.
We returned our wonderful cargo bike right at 8:00 PM, enjoyed a short, easy walk back to the hotel to rest, and headed down to our musical oasis at Soul 1927 for a late 10:00 PM dinner.
Day 3: A Mindful City Walk and Sweet Local Treats
Our final day in Valencia was all about a slow, mindful city walk. We spent our hours wandering the flat, beautiful pedestrian streets, stopping whenever a shop caught our eye.
Naturally, our culinary passion followed us. We made a special stop at Bassk Cheesecake to try a slice of authentic Basque Burnt Cheesecake. It was absolute perfection—smoky and caramelized on the outside, but incredibly rich, creamy, and velvety on the inside. After a light lunch of fresh local pasta, we wrapped up our afternoon by trying a famous local beverage ritual: the Valencia Blanco y Negro (Black and White).
This classic local treat is a rich glass of iced coffee topped with a generous scoop of smooth, artisanal vanilla ice cream. It is the ultimate afternoon pick-me-up for a warm summer day.
(P.S. As a former cafe owner, I couldn’t leave Spain without figuring out how to recreate this masterpiece! I have already written down the perfect, step-by-step [Valencia Blanco y Negro Recipe] over in our Cafe Culture section, so you can experience this sweet coastal luxury right at home.)
Our time in Valencia was the perfect blend of coastal air, clever accessible movement, historic meals, and musical nights. It proved once again that when you travel at your own beautiful pace, the world opens up to you in the most spectacular ways.