The Road to My Roots: A 3-Week Guide to Family, Culture, and Slow Travel in Taiwan

Taiwan is where I was born, and it will always hold a deeply special place in my heart. Today, it has also become a sanctuary for my parents. Like many older adults, they decided to move back to Taiwan from Canada to enjoy their golden years. For them, Taiwan offers world-class, easily accessible healthcare, unparalleled daily-life convenience, and—most importantly for winter safety—absolutely no snow to navigate.

Ideally, I travel back once a year to spend precious time with my family and to complete my own routine preventative health checks. This year, my 20-something son joined me for his very first trip back to Taiwan since before COVID. Together, after wrapping up our time in Singapore, we embarked on a beautiful, relaxing 3-week journey that blended family reconnection with breathtaking sightseeing.

🌏 An Introduction to Taiwan: The Beautiful Island

Historically known as Ilha Formosa (The Beautiful Island), Taiwan is a vibrant island nation in East Asia, on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, just north of the Philippines and south of Japan.

• The Geography: Despite its compact size, Taiwan’s geography is stunningly diverse. The western third of the island consists of flat, coastal plains and bustling modern cities, while the eastern two-thirds are dominated by a massive, rugged spine of five majestic mountain ranges covered in lush alpine forests.
• 💡 Taiwan Fun Fact #1: Did you know that Taiwan is home to the highest density of high mountains in the entire world? For an island only about half the size of New Brunswick, it features a staggering 268 mountain peaks that soar over 3,000 metres (10,000 feet) high!

📅 When to Visit: Navigating the Seasons

I typically schedule my annual family visits during late winter or early spring, between January and March. However, if you are planning your own escape from the Canadian winter, November to March is the absolute most comfortable window to travel. During these months, the intense tropical summer humidity subsides, leaving you with beautifully cool, pleasant weather that is perfect for walking tours and outdoor exploration.

🚐 Our Travel Style: Coastal Van Charters & Scenic Train Rides

To make our 3-week journey as comfortable and stress-free as possible, we used a brilliant combination of private and public transport. For one side of the island, we chartered a private van tour from Taipei down to Changhua. This allowed us to travel effortlessly between coastal stops, night markets, and traditional towns with our luggage safely tucked away, setting a relaxed pace.

For the rest of our 3-week trip, we leaned into Taiwan’s world-class public transport. We took the scenic train, MRT, TRA, and HRT systems directly into specific target cities. Once we arrived at our destination, we would either book a specialized local day tour or simply wander off on our own to explore, based on our own travel research!

Sights, Cities, and Coastal Adventures

By balancing our private van charter with independent train hopping, my son and I were able to seamlessly jump between ultra-modern architecture, ancient fishing villages, and dramatic coastal geography.

1. Hualien: A Scenic Retirement Paradise

Hualien is my parents’ chosen home base, and it is easy to see why it is an absolute paradise for retirement. Nestled quietly on Taiwan’s rugged eastern coast, it is a peaceful city where towering green mountains drop directly into the vast blue waves of the Pacific Ocean. The air is pristine, the pace of life is calm, and it offers the ultimate daily natural escape for healthy aging.

• Taroko Repair Update: Because of a major earthquake a few years back, the iconic marble walls of Taroko Gorge National Park are undergoing an intensive, long-term safety restoration project. While parts of Highway 8 are open under strict daily traffic control windows, popular signature hiking tracks (like the Shakadang and Swallow Grotto trails) remain temporarily closed as engineering crews work hard to stabilize the loose cliffs. However, the majestic Qingshui Cliffs, local city boardwalks, and vibrant Hualien night markets are fully accessible, safe, and filled with incredible local warmth!

2. Lukang: The Cultural Heart of Changhua

Lukang is one of Taiwan’s oldest towns, where my son and I loved stepping backward through time to explore its deep historical roots. We spent a fascinating afternoon wandering through the well-preserved red-brick lanes and stunning architecture of Lukang Old Street, making sure to visit the grand Lukang Mazu Temple—one of the island’s oldest and most revered shrines dedicated to the sea goddess. We even braved a walk through Touching Chest Alley, a famously narrow passageway that perfectly reflects the dense layout of this historic trading port. To finish our tour, we explored Osmanthus Lane Art Village, where a cluster of Japanese-era dormitories has been beautifully revitalized into open workshops for brilliant local artisans and woodcarvers.

3. The National Taichung Theater (Opera House)

Designed by the legendary Japanese architect Toyo Ito, this ultra-modern building is an architectural marvel. The entire structure is built using flowing, organic curves and cavernous, seamless concrete walls with absolutely no straight pillars. Standing inside the sunlit, sweeping lobby feels like being inside a giant, futuristic sea sponge.

4. Rainbow Village (Taichung)

This whimsical, eye-popping destination is a small neighborhood completely covered in vibrant, colorful murals of animals, astronauts, and traditional characters. It was painted single-handedly by a local military veteran, “Rainbow Grandpa,” to save his village from demolition. It is one of the most cheerful, Instagram-famous artistic spots on the entire island.

5. Sun Moon Lake (With an E-Bike Ride!)

Sun Moon Lake is a breathtaking alpine lake located in the mountainous heart of Taiwan, named because its unique shape resembles a sun on one side and a crescent moon on the other. The lake is surrounded by sacred indigenous history and misty green peaks. Renting an easy, low-effort E-bike to cruise along its world-famous shoreline cycling path was an absolute highlight of our trip!

6. Sanyi: The Historic Train Station & Woodcarving Town

Located in mountainous Miaoli County, Sanyi is the undisputed woodcarving capital of Taiwan. We visited its historic railway areas, famous for the hauntingly beautiful Shengxing Station—a nostalgic, 1900s-era Japanese wooden train station nestled in a valley that survived a massive historic earthquake and now serves as a scenic walking destination.

7. Tamsui: A Romantic Seaside Escape

Sitting at the northern tip of Taipei’s MRT line, Tamsui is a romantic coastal boardwalk town rich in Spanish, Dutch, and British colonial history. It is famous for its vibrant street-performance culture, historic forts, and “Iron Eggs” street food. We spent a relaxing afternoon watching a spectacular golden sunset over the Fisherman’s Wharf harbor.

8. Yehliu Geopark: An Alien Coastal Landscape

This narrow coastal cape stretching out into the ocean is world-famous for its surreal, alien-like rock formations. Over thousands of years, geological shifts and harsh ocean waves have eroded the limestone into bizarre shapes resembling giant mushrooms, ginger roots, and fairy shoes. The most famous landmark here is the majestic “Queen’s Head” rock, which resembles the elegant profile of an Egyptian queen!

9. Qijin Island (Kaohsiung): A Motorbike Ocean Cruise

To top off our coastal adventures, we took a short ferry ride over to Qijin, a historic narrow barrier island protecting Kaohsiung Harbor. We rented two motorbikes to effortlessly cruise right along the edge of the crashing ocean waves. It was an incredibly liberating, breezy experience for my 20-something son and me to explore the black-sand beaches, historic lighthouses, and fresh-seafood street markets on two wheels!

Navigating Taiwan Like a Local: Transit, Convenience, and Safety

Taiwan is incredibly safe to travel—in fact, it routinely ranks among the safest countries in the world for independent travelers and solo explorers. The local culture is deeply respectful, and crime is low.

🏪 The Magic of 7-Eleven & Convenience Stores

In Taiwan, convenience stores like 7-Eleven and FamilyMart sit on almost every single street corner, and they are the true operational heart of the country. They are completely different from convenience stores in North America! You can visit them 24/7 to:

• Buy high-quality, fresh bento boxes, hot snacks, and steamed buns.
• Use their international ATMs for safe, instant cash withdrawals.
• Purchase and print your long-distance train and High-Speed Rail tickets.

🧋 Step 1 Upon Arrival: Get Your YoYo Card!

The absolute first thing you should do when landing at the airport or stepping into a train station is walk into a 7-Eleven and purchase an EasyCard (locally known as a YoYo Card).

• This single smart card will take you all over the entire island!
• You can tap it to ride the MRT, city buses, and local trains, and even use it to pay for snacks at convenience stores.
• You can easily load cash onto your YoYo card at any 7-Eleven counter or automated station kiosk in less than 10 seconds.

🚇 Easy Transit & Translation Hacks

• The MRT & Trains: Taipei and Kaohsiung feature the MRT subway system. It is spotlessly clean, fully air-conditioned, and completely wheelchair accessible with elevators at every station. For traveling between major regions, the regular trains and High-Speed Rail (HSR) connect the island seamlessly.
• Why Uber is a Lifesaver: Uber operates widely throughout Taiwan. If you do not speak Mandarin, I highly recommend using the Uber app. Because you type your destination in English and pay directly through the app, it completely eliminates any language barriers or translation stress with local drivers.
• Language: Taiwanese people are famously among the friendliest and most helpful in the world. Even if there is a language barrier, a mix of light English, warm smiles, and Google Translate on your phone will get you anywhere you need to go!

✈️ Planning Your Taiwan Escape?

If you are planning your own arrival into Taiwan to explore these incredible sights, you can compare the best flight routes and seasonal airline deals directly through the Trip.com Global Flight Search Engine to kickstart your travel itinerary smoothly!

📋 Where We Stayed: Unique Hidden Gems

To give you the perfect balance of modern luxury and deep cultural immersion, these were our favorite, highly recommended stays during our 3-week adventure:

• 🏨 Taichung Stay: 1969 Blue Sky Hotel – Nostalgia-filled boutique hotel in Taichung featuring a massive, Instagram-famous lobby wall made entirely of vintage suitcases.
• 🏨 Sun Moon Lake Stay: Hu Yue Lakeview Hotel – Situated right on the water’s edge, offering breathtaking, panoramic glass views of Sun Moon Lake the moment you wake up.
• 🏨 Lukang Cultural Stay: Yile Yile Bed and Breakfast – A beautiful, deeply authentic accommodation in Changhua’s historic Lukang township, featuring traditional Japanese-style tatami mats for a peaceful, nostalgic night’s sleep.
• 🏨 Hsinchu Luxury Stay: EPISODE Hsinchu, JdV by Hyatt – A stunning, ultra-modern boutique luxury hotel located in Taiwan’s high-tech hub, featuring sleek contemporary design, pet-friendly premium rooms, and incredible premium comfort.

💡 Tech & Tour Checklists: Your Trip.com Quick Links

To ensure a stress-free arrival, you can book all your essential digital connection passes and city tour packages directly through your Trip.com Dashboard before you even board your flight:

• 🌐 Taiwan Unlimited SIM Cards & eSIMs – Pick it up right at the airport arrival hall so your Google Maps and translation apps work the second you land.
• 🗼 Taipei 101 Observatory Entry Tickets – Skip the massive general admission ticket lines to ride the world’s fastest double-deck elevators straight into the clouds.
• 🍲 Guided Taipei Night Market Street Food Walking Tour – Let a local expert guide you through the maze of stalls to find the absolute best Michelin-recommended bites.
• ♨️ Beitou Natural Hot Springs & Spa Packages – Treat your joints and muscles to a soothing afternoon soaking in Taiwan’s famous healing mineral waters.

🏮 The Ultimate Night Market Feast: Must-Try Specialty Foods

Taiwan is the undisputed street food capital of the world, and you can find these legendary staples inside almost any night market across the island:

1. 🧋 Bubble Tea (Origin): You cannot visit Taiwan without drinking authentic Pearl Milk Tea! Taiwan is the official birthplace of bubble tea, invented in the 1980s by mixing sweet iced milk tea with chewy tapioca pearls.
   • 💡 Taiwan Fun Fact #2: The invention of bubble tea was actually an accident! A product development manager at a Taichung teahouse was sitting in a boring meeting when she got bored and playfully dumped her local tapioca dessert into her glass of iced Assam tea. It tasted so phenomenal that they put it on the menu—and a global phenomenon was born!
2. 🍜 Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup: The ultimate comforting national dish. It features melt-in-your-mouth braised beef shank, thick chewy noodles, and a rich, deeply aromatic herbal broth.
3. 🥟 Xiaolongbao (Soup Dumplings): Delicate, paper-thin dough wrappers pinched perfectly to hold a savory pork filling and a splash of boiling, flavorful broth inside.
4. 🥢 Stinky Tofu: You will smell this love-it-or-hate-it delicacy long before you see it! It is fermented tofu that is deep-fried until perfectly crispy on the outside, drenched in a savory garlic sauce, and served with a mountain of crunchy pickled cabbage.

⚠️ Essential Local Customs & Safety Realities

• The Tipping Culture (None): There is absolutely zero tipping culture in Taiwan. You do not tip taxi drivers, street food vendors, or café baristas. In formal sit-down restaurants, a standard 10% service charge is automatically added to the final bill, so you never need to leave extra cash on the table.
• Earthquake Safety & Preparation: Because Taiwan sits directly on a major tectonic fault line, it is an active earthquake zone. The good news is that Taiwanese infrastructure is world-class; the buildings are strictly engineered to be earthquake-proof and flexible. However, as a smart traveler, you should always keep an Emergency Evacuation Bag parked right next to your hotel room door. Inside this bag, keep your passport, government IDs, and essential daily medications so you can grab it instantly in the rare event of an evacuation drill or tremor.

📋 What I Used / Shop This Post

• 👒 Weather & Sun Protection: Ultra-Compact UV Travel Umbrella & Lightweight Breathable Rain Jacket – Vital for protecting your skin from sudden coastal downpours and hot spring humidity.
• 👚 All-Day Comfort: Moisture-Wicking Breathable Clothing – Keeps your body temperature stable while transitioning from crowded outdoor night markets into air-conditioned subways.
• 🎒 Daypack & Tech: Anti-Theft Lightweight Travel Backpack & High-Capacity Portable Power Bank – Critical for keeping your phone’s translation apps, Uber maps, and camera battery fully charged all day long.

Whether you’re catching a sunset or hitting the night markets, Taiwan proves you can tackle big adventures at your own pace using smart hacks like private drivers and the ultra-accessible MRT. Now, I’m throwing it back at you—leave me a message if you are traveling to Taiwan or need any RA-friendly tips for your own trip!

Skylar